this is only partly true...
it is a really good tool in the hands of a skilled PRO, but if you don't know how to do the correct regular maintanance and adjustments -> it will be a real pain in the a..
for concrete i recomend to always use the softest segment type cutting ring, and stick to the original Husqvarna diamond tools ring. there are a lot of "pirate" rings that are not the right materials and often even not soft enough.
and always put a new drive wheel on a new disk! and remember to relase the spring tenision everytime it's not in use.
the suport wheels are corectly adjusted if you can barely keep them from spinning with your hands, when you rotate the disk by hand! (with tenision on the springs). remember to shut off the power pack when doing this!!!

We don't own one single gasoline driven concrete cutter, we always bring our own truck with built in power packs and generators!

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I've been cutting concrete for 22yrs. maybe in another 20 I'll have it figured out.

then it's not because of the experience!

what model ring saw do you have? the old model was worth it's price in scrap metal, but the new models are neat! you can cut with the ring until there is no longer diamonds on it, without any major adjustments. and the adjustments are really easy to do!

we have had some "professionals" working for us that never did learn that you can't load and push the ring saw like a direct hydraulic unit, the RGC S16 for example. thats the reason we always use the softest rings for concrete, they wear more but needs a lot less preasure to stay sharp. in brick walls we use the medium ring.

also cutting with to little water wears out the wheels faster!
do you use a 4,5mm (1,77") wide pre-cut disk to open up a 15cm (6") deep cut first? it really saves money and nerves!

we only use the ring cutter when it is absolutely nesesarry, when the concrete walls are thicker than 15cm (6") we usually mount the wall saw. the cost of using it is a lot cheaper and the amount of time is the same or less if you hit a lot of reinforcement.
but then we use the ring saw to prevent over cuts (in combination with the chain saw), and when it is not possible or nesessary to use the wall saw.

but then again, when thinking back to the -90's, i still remember how MUCH i hated the old ring saw!!!
i had to cut a 60m (196') long horisontal cut in heavily reinforced concrete at a steel factory, i will probably never forget that one...

__________________
If you can build it, then I can break it!
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yea i remember some door openings i had to cut with that ring saw through 10" of reinforced concrete, the saw bucking when it hit rebar and tossing me off some baker staging after it slammed me in the chest. What a great tool.

i always used out 14" demo saw to start the cuts, i found it awfully dificult to cut straight with the ring saw without at least scoring it first it tends to drift away.

i think its a partner 700 series? not sure though.

Good luck this summer hope everyone does well.

I hear ya there. I could never cut straight with a ring saw, scoring or not.

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It's possible to cut with high accuracy with the ring saw, before cutting with the ring saw you should cut with a "normal cutter" 6" deep, and after that cut with the ring saw. when cutting with the ring saw you shouldn't apply any pressure on the disc, otherwise the drive rollers will slip and the cut can start to drift away. by cutting in many rows, only 1-2" deep/row, it will cut straighter and be a lot more efficient.
and like i said earlyer, use only HIGH quality disks on it, if cutting concrete!! for concrete we only use the Husqvarna soft disk, it's really good in even quite heavy reinforcement.

but in any case, i rather use the pentruder wall saw, it's so nice to stand with a remonte controll instead of cutting by hand

__________________
If you can build it, then I can break it!
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